Yes, I accept that there are environmental costs to meat-eating, too.

The difference is that carnivores don’t keep banging on about how selfless and noble they are every time they tuck into a juicy steak.

Vegans, on the other hand, really do seem to imagine that they’re on a higher moral plane; and that furthermore, the only right thing to do is for everyone else to join them.

This mildly sinister, proselytising side of veganism was brought home to me when I bought a carton of Oatly oat drink and noticed on the side, the legend: ‘You are one of us now!’

I’m sure it was meant as a jokey piece of marketing. But lurking underneath is an unpleasant ‘them and us’ divisiveness.