When I was in North Korea, I, too, was tempted to break the rules. We were instructed daily not to take pictures without explicit authorization. But once, when our bus had stopped in the middle of the countryside without explanation, I noticed a bicycle leaning forlornly against a tree and felt that would make a compelling photo. Our tour guide had left the bus along with another of our minders; the bus driver was not looking behind him. It would be easy to squeeze off a shot. But just as I was thinking that, the bus was stormed by soldiers with the tearful guide in tow. “They said someone took a picture!” she cried. “Who took the picture? This is a military installation!”

A student was taken off the bus and disappeared with the guide for a hair-raising hour.

What kept our group from a possible Otto Warmbier situation was that the student was a Chinese citizen, and China is one of North Korea’s few allies. Many of us deliberately left our cameras in the bus at the next stop, terrified of making another mistake.