The Firecracker Salmon appetizer, rolled in spinach, deep-fried in a crisp wrapper, served with sweet hot chili sauce: 660 calories. The Orange Chicken, another deep-fryer visitor, soaked in spicy orange sauce: 1,890 calories.

Roger Johnson, a ravenous 39-year-old federal worker from Hyattsville, ordered both.

Quick gastric calculation: That’s far more calories than any sane nutritionist would recommend for one meal. The calories were not secret, hidden away on the restaurant’s Web site. They were listed on the menu, next to the prices, impossible to miss.

“Yeah, I saw them,” Johnson, a man of medium build, said somewhat sheepishly on his way out. “I guess I’ll have to work out or something later.” Then he had second thoughts. “Or maybe I’ll cheat a little today.” He let out a hearty laugh.