Video: Red, White, and Sacrebleu
posted at 2:20 pm on December 14, 2009 by Ed Morrissey
Reason TV explains how American wines managed to progress from Ripple, Thunderbird, and brown paper bags to beating the French in a famous taste test dramatized in the film Bottle Shock in just twenty years — and why France can’t innovate. In an entertaining and enlightening seven-minute documentary, Reason explores the stultifying effect of French government control over winemaking, including the use of government tasters to approve and reject wines for sale and its diktats on crop choices and methods that keep France’s winemakers straitjacketed. In America, and increasingly around the world, winemakers have the opportunity to take risks, change crops, try new methods, and let the consumer choose what works best:
It’s rather amusing to see the old “wine elves” commercial and James Mason flacking for Thunderbird, a wine usually seen in the better parts of Skid Row. Most people remember Orson Welles for his “we will sell no wine before its time” pitch for Paul Masson wines, a respectable, bulk cheap California wine popular in the 1970s. But the “hamburger nation” had better wine roots than that, even then; it took a long time for it to gain notice, but it eventually broke through. Competition allows for that, and while top-down statist control over the means of production may lock in a certain level of proficiency, it sticks it in amber and assumes that any change will be harmful. As the California wineries have proven repeatedly, innovation is not the enemy of excellence, and failure just means that innovation can be properly directed.
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richards wild irish rose.
eh on December 14, 2009 at 2:22 PM
http://www.bumwine.com/wildirishrose.html
eh on December 14, 2009 at 2:23 PM
That Night Train is a mean wine.
Mr. D on December 14, 2009 at 2:26 PM
Well soon you will not be able to grow wine in this country bcs of new EPA standards that prohibt any managed use of the land.
Along with your food, and everything else, you wine will come from India & China where some style of capitalism runs amok enough to allow for innovation.
It reminds me of socialized healthcare I tell ya.
Badger40 on December 14, 2009 at 2:27 PM
Socialism and communism are unparalleled in their ability to produce mediocrity. Remember the “Trabant”? Ever seen the fabulous styling of a “Zil”? Look at our public schools if you want to see a study in socialism.
mr.blacksheep on December 14, 2009 at 2:28 PM
If anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving.
Emperor Norton on December 14, 2009 at 2:29 PM
been drinking a nice argentinian malbec lately.
eh on December 14, 2009 at 2:30 PM
Wine making creates CO2, can’t have that.
farright on December 14, 2009 at 2:32 PM
When I was a kid, my parents used to drink a red wine called Pizanno. I cost $1.99 for a gallon bottle (1970s dollars). For some reason I never acquired a taste for alcohol.
Tommy_G on December 14, 2009 at 2:33 PM
I have an ex-father-in-law that made hnis own wine. I wouldn’t say it was strong, but I spilled some on the carpet and it exposed the slab.
kingsjester on December 14, 2009 at 2:33 PM
I’ve gone almost exclusively to California and other American wines, with the exception of Corton-Charlemagne, which comes from a very small French vineyard that is exempt from most of the government’s micro-management regulations.
It is so true what French government over-regulation has done to a once venerable industry.
TXUS on December 14, 2009 at 2:33 PM
The best wine I ever tasted was a white from Virginia. Not expensive, either.
Reds sit like a brick with me, so I’ve largely been into Rhines and good domestic Chardonnays most of my life.
No, you libs: I have never once enjoyed her liver with fava beans and a good Chianti.
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 2:34 PM
Wow. I bought a pint of that in college for about $1.78. A hint: whatever you can’t finish drinking can always be used to clean paint brushes.
joejm65 on December 14, 2009 at 2:35 PM
We are a great country. The best in the world. Period.
kagai on December 14, 2009 at 2:41 PM
I have grape Mad Dog in my fridge right now. No lie!
(good for wine cooler making)
RedNewEnglander on December 14, 2009 at 2:41 PM
Everything’s better when the gub’mint hasn’t interjected themselves into the process.
Fletch54 on December 14, 2009 at 2:42 PM
Again, like I said on another thread, Sharia law in France won’t allow wine making…in 30 years.
Oil Can on December 14, 2009 at 2:43 PM
I only drink Champagne. The Champagne of Beers, that is! Miller High LIfe, baby.
robblefarian on December 14, 2009 at 2:43 PM
Totally forgot about that.
And since the EPA has declared that a health hazard, I am sure alcohol in general will be, also.
Why legislate when you can appoint czars to do it for you?
Badger40 on December 14, 2009 at 2:43 PM
Yum – Mad Dog 20 20 – memories of college looking for coins in the sofa to buy a bottle……..
DailyTrackingPoll on December 14, 2009 at 2:45 PM
That’s all we drank in college. All we could afford. And I have no college memories as a result — which is probably a good thing.
TXUS on December 14, 2009 at 2:45 PM
Two buck chuck.
The Ugly American on December 14, 2009 at 2:46 PM
You should have been a pothead instead. LOL
Just teasing you, Patriot.
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 2:48 PM
Ugh. I always had money for a six pack or two of Amber Bock or Samuel Adams.
Holger on December 14, 2009 at 2:48 PM
lololol
cmsinaz on December 14, 2009 at 2:48 PM
+1
cmsinaz on December 14, 2009 at 2:49 PM
Yeah. Two Buck Chuck. (or is it 2.75 now?)
portlandon on December 14, 2009 at 2:49 PM
ahhhh memories…
cmsinaz on December 14, 2009 at 2:50 PM
Oh don’t worry about the CO2. You can have as much and more as you always had. You just have to pay the extra carbon taxes*.
*helps to provide Africa with solar non swirling toilets.
BL@KBIRD on December 14, 2009 at 2:50 PM
lucky pup…
cmsinaz on December 14, 2009 at 2:51 PM
My favorite winery is Parducci…specifically their Petite Sirah — the absolute best I’ve ever tasted.
The Ugly American on December 14, 2009 at 2:53 PM
If I wanted to splurge I’d pay two bucks extra for a six pack of Paulaner which is a great german beer.
Holger on December 14, 2009 at 2:54 PM
Marijuana absorbs CO2 and does not require any preparation except drying, so which do you think the Obama EPA will be for?
barnone on December 14, 2009 at 2:54 PM
I like my wine from a box thank you very much!
SouthernGent on December 14, 2009 at 2:54 PM
What France, Obama, and most liberals don’t understand is that failure is a natural and healthy product of innovation. Failure is the foundation on which the tower of success is built. All great inventors have understood this.
hawksruleva on December 14, 2009 at 2:55 PM
no argument here, very good
cmsinaz on December 14, 2009 at 2:55 PM
I really like wines from the Bordeaux or Burgundy regions and some of the Chilean reds.
I’ve tried to find a good Texan wine, but had little luck so far. I’m sure there are some good California reds, but I haven’t been all that motivated to give them much of a try.
Asher on December 14, 2009 at 2:56 PM
Funny! Never used it myself but, of course, we always had some available for the chicks who wanted a toke before…
TXUS on December 14, 2009 at 2:56 PM
I prefer my whines from libs when I’m in a bad mood. Does that count?
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 2:56 PM
California winegrape growing and winemaking is a wonderful phenomenon. So far even our state government has stayed out of the way, for the most part. They increased taxes substantially recently, especially on wines with high alcohol content, but we’re still doing well.
Look for some good new (for California) varietals to try- Mourvedre, Malbec and Roussanne from the Paso Robles region are coming to the wider market soon. Paso Zins are giant and very high alcohol. All the big reds do great in Paso Robles with very high daytime temps and very cold night time temps. Pinot Noir from San Luis Obispo is great with turkey.
I think since N-Pel, Boxer and Feinstain are all heavily invested in wineries and vineyards the industry should be relatively safe, at least in their neighborhood (Sonoma, Napa).
Oops, sorry for the book!
We usually start with some good bottles and switch to two buck once everyone is too faded to appreciate the good stuff.
NTWR on December 14, 2009 at 2:57 PM
Blackberry Manaschevitz.
Laura in Maryland on December 14, 2009 at 2:57 PM
That’s exactly what is in my fridge right now. High Life is my “Summer” beer.
robblefarian on December 14, 2009 at 2:59 PM
Wine?
I try to keep some boxes on hand — usually one of each variety of wine: one red and one white.
(Just checked the fridge — they’re more like pinkish and yellow….)
notropis on December 14, 2009 at 2:59 PM
The left and it’s weenies in congress are doing their best to make sure we were a great country.
RagTag on December 14, 2009 at 3:00 PM
Or as we used to call it in college: pancake syrup.
notropis on December 14, 2009 at 3:01 PM
I was a big pot-head in the 80s. Did me better than did alcohol. Then I grew up, ditched the grass, and keep my alcohol level well below my blood content.
Libs have never really gone in for that.
But if you and your Lady want a good wine with a romantic dinner, I recommend a white Virgina. Or, Georges deBeoff Chardonnay. Neither are expensive, and delightful to the palate.
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 3:01 PM
My summer beer is Caquama.
Holger on December 14, 2009 at 3:01 PM
Germany, France, and Italy are mired in the “old school” of wine making. Germany’s Rieslings are also regulated courtesy of ancient government laws that will never be repealed because of tradition. I live in the Hessen weingau region which, year after year, cranks out late-season rieslings that taste, honestly, like antifreeze. But they’re unlikely to change, sadly.
The American wine industry, especially the west coast, can’t get too comfortable. The best wines I’ve had in the past year was a Sauvignon blanc from South Africa, and an unoaked chardonnay from Virginia. And Australia continues to make stellar wines. Capitalism spurns diversity which influences superior product. God bless America.
I got into wines while living here in Germany; don’t let the sheer number of choices intimidate you from getting into wines. Just drink what you like. :)
Sgt Steve on December 14, 2009 at 3:03 PM
Good movie, Sideways. My favorite exchange on why Miles liked Pinot Noir so much:
TXUS on December 14, 2009 at 3:04 PM
I love going to Paso Robles. I want to retire there with a small vineyard.
Oil Can on December 14, 2009 at 3:05 PM
This video is misleading in a couple of ways.
First, dollar-for-dollar the French are still producing better wines than Americans from the dirt cheap levels up through moderately expensive ($20-30), which has always annoyed me as a would-be vino-patriot.
Second, the restrictions mentioned in the video fall heaviest on what are called “AOC” (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée)wines and there’s a good reason for them. The French have traditionally sold wines by region, not by grape. When a region gets AOC status, the government imposes restrictions so that wines from the same AOC share similar characteristics. For example, you have to plant either Pinot Noir or Chardonnay in Burgundy, so that consumers know that they’re getting a “Burgundy.” If you planted Cabernet Sauvignon and called it a Burgundy, you be committing fraud on a certain level and — worse for the growers — diluting the brand. In addition, certain high-quality vineyards have limits on how many grapes can be harvested per hectare, again, to assure a certain minimal level of quality (if you leave vines un-pruned to increase yield, you get a more diluted taste). This is, by the way, how the Italians made Chianti into a respectable wine and made a lot of money for their growers.
You can actually do pretty much whatever you want to do in much of France, but you can’t use the AOC label. Thus, in the South, there is a lot of experimenting with non-traditional grape varieties. And modern production techniques like steel tanks have long been used (at least since the Americans kicked their butts) by number of French producers.
Finally, two historical notes: In the years after WWII, for whatever reason, fortified wines made up some ridiculous percentage of the liquor market, so as odd as it is to see an advertisement for Ripple starring respectable actors, it wouldn’t have seemed odd back then.
And (surprised he didn’t work this in) the wine tasting referenced in the video is now universally known as “The Judgment of Paris.”
Bleeds Blue on December 14, 2009 at 3:05 PM
I’ll try the chard, but what’s the name of the VA white?
TXUS on December 14, 2009 at 3:08 PM
Let me add that my comments re: American v. French wine quality is generally speaking; there are many producers in the U.S. that offer excellent wines at reasonable prices.
Bleeds Blue on December 14, 2009 at 3:08 PM
I think you mean “spurs,” Sgt. In which case you’re right.
notropis on December 14, 2009 at 3:09 PM
Was it a Horton Vineyards Viogner?
Bleeds Blue on December 14, 2009 at 3:10 PM
Boones Farm and Bali Hai.
echosyst on December 14, 2009 at 3:14 PM
I don’t remember the label; it was years ago. But, taking Virginia as a region, I would say overall the quality is about the same no matter the vintner.
Of course the vintage matters, but I honestly can’t quibble at all there; the region is basically excellent as I so far can tell.
Maybe try a bottle of one, and see what you like? Wine is really a matter of taste (as you know, I expect).
See what works?
I like Georges de Beoff for the consistency I have found, but it’s been a while.
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 3:15 PM
In the back seat of the car, her panties in a bundle on the floor, her soft slick mouth pressed yours with tongues entwined, with Meat Loaf on the radio…
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 3:16 PM
Gotta go with that works!
Yreas ago, when I landed a new job, I bought a $20 bottle of Spanish champagne. That was ritzy at the time.
I never tasted cougar piss, but that’s the only thing to which I could compare it. LOL
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 3:20 PM
We were camping in Oregon and in order to facilitate the act of sleeping on the ground we drove ten or 15 miles to the general store and picked up a couple of bottles with a Penguin on the label — wine that acquired the name “Penguin Piss” as soon as we tasted it. Talk about roughing it. Australian, though, not Spanish.
Bleeds Blue on December 14, 2009 at 3:24 PM
Don’t drink it myself, but the Missus really likes one from Chateau Morrisette, just down the Parkway from us, called Sweet Mountain Laurel. They also have one called Blue Dog that she says is pretty good too.
TugboatPhil on December 14, 2009 at 3:25 PM
ROTF
And what about the label “Old Fart”?
I’ll fight with a rifle against any odds but, DAMN! I don’t have the balls to try tasting that one!
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 3:27 PM
As in Alanis Morrisette? I’ve seen pics of her nude.
Took me YEARS to get over that and get back my eyesight!
/just busting your chops
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 3:29 PM
I purchase the wine for my unit’s events… I switched to NC wines last spring to great response… we had switched to CA wines a long time before that.
The only foreign wine we’ve had in years was an Italian chardonnay… because it was on sale.
mankai on December 14, 2009 at 3:30 PM
you have my sympathies…
Ann on December 14, 2009 at 3:30 PM
Mad Dog can gag a maggot
Liam on December 14, 2009 at 3:33 PM
I’m with you, Liam. I developed a love for Rhine wines and Geman beer while stationed in Darmstadt in the early 70′s and that never left me. The wines I can buy locally, but for much more than I used to pay in the PX. Now if I could just find a source for that great Pfungstadter…
SKYFOX on December 14, 2009 at 3:43 PM
LOL! I think it was Bob Seger’s “Night Moves”
Zorg on December 14, 2009 at 3:49 PM
But we NEED wine! How dare those greedy viticulturists and evil enologists try to profit from wine.
bitsy on December 14, 2009 at 3:49 PM
There are a few decent Spanish Cava’s but some of the best values in sparkling wine come from Italy’s Prosecco’s. Speaking of cougar piss, we tried a Brazilian red called Cancao last night that our cleaning lady left us for Christmas. I guess she needs a raise…
CTSherman on December 14, 2009 at 3:50 PM
Two buck Chuck Shiraz is the shizzle my nizzle…
It’s like liquid codeine. After the first glass, it’s all for the effect.
Seven Percent Solution on December 14, 2009 at 4:03 PM
College memories…a case (24 cans!) of Dutch Lunch beer for $1.89. Made in Portland, OR as I recall.
Mason on December 14, 2009 at 4:04 PM
Greatest outtake ever. A VERY drunk Orson Welles doing his famous Paul Masson wine comercial.
madne0 on December 14, 2009 at 4:06 PM
Random bit of trivia: In the 1860-1870′s phylloxera (an aphid) wiped out most of Europe’s wine industry. Since the aphids were originally from America, American vines are resistant to the pests — but the grapes produce a funny tasting wine. It turns out that the solution to the pests was to graft European vines onto American rootstocks. To this day, most wines are made from vines grafted to American phylloxera-resistant rootstocks. (The exceptions are Chile and Australia where geography gives protection from the pest.)
bitsy on December 14, 2009 at 4:13 PM
Hey now, some of us used to like Thunderbird in our younger years. 99 cents a bottle back then, can’t beat that on a friday night.
clearbluesky on December 14, 2009 at 4:17 PM
Thunderbird?
Ripple?
YUCK!!
Give me a nice bottle of
Boone’s Farm or Annie Green Springs any day.
Yum yum. *slurp*
mrt721 on December 14, 2009 at 4:28 PM
Gallo Pink Chablis. Slightly sparkling. Just the thing for the parking lot before the high school dance.
And Mateus Rose or Blue Nun for big dates.
Bleeds Blue on December 14, 2009 at 4:40 PM
Chilean wine is pretty damn good too.
Daemonocracy on December 14, 2009 at 5:09 PM
But I’m a Whiskey man, Royal Crown or Yamazaki (yes it’s Japanese but damn good).
Daemonocracy on December 14, 2009 at 5:11 PM
No Thunderbird for me, thanks. I’m strictly a Night Train guy…
mojo on December 14, 2009 at 5:33 PM
I’ve never drank wine unless you count Sangria or a Pear Mead.
Holger on December 14, 2009 at 5:44 PM
Suntory does make a very good whiskey.
Asher on December 14, 2009 at 6:06 PM
The only thing I drink. White is too crisp for me. I like to drink something with body!
Rightwingguy on December 14, 2009 at 6:09 PM
All right! I’m a home brewer and wine maker. I love red Bordeaux wines and always strive to make something similar. But Maryland wines are very, very good. As a free person in a free environment I can do screw up as many vats as I want. At least for now.
This is the kinda thread I can get into.
obleo on December 14, 2009 at 6:12 PM
Just for the record, Spainish wines, especially the semi-dry types, are among the best in the world. A little pricy and less well known. But if you get a chance check out what another free environment can produce.
Several great posts here.
obleo on December 14, 2009 at 6:20 PM
Along the same line. A world wide hop shortage two years ago ham-strung home brewers. An amazing set of unrelated circumstances caused huge losses across the world.
obleo on December 14, 2009 at 6:25 PM
Wines from Oregon’s Willamette valley compare as well or better than French wines. Particularly the Pinots.
I did some work for a couple who owned a winery and home in Dundee, Oregon. We were working on their buildings. One day, while taking notes inside their living room, I spotted a photo of the couple shaking hands with President Bush at a fund raiser. I thought it was great, but my work colleague nearly had a conniption fit. :-) So that is the closest I have come to shaking hands with a President, 2 degrees of separation.
Mallard T. Drake on December 14, 2009 at 6:27 PM
Yeah, just don’t try to ship wine directly to your consumers. Free the grapes! http://www.freethegrapes.org/
Evilwhiteguy on December 14, 2009 at 6:42 PM
MD-20/20…the wine of the century!!!
jgdp on December 14, 2009 at 6:56 PM
Give Llano or Caprock a try. Some of the Llanos have managed to beat Californias on occasion.
bikermailman on December 14, 2009 at 7:14 PM
“Unusual” flavor of Thunderbird? It’s called urine.
Mike Honcho on December 14, 2009 at 8:54 PM
MD 20/20 – If we don’t make you puke in the bushes at your friend’s house, nothing will.
kagai on December 14, 2009 at 10:25 PM
If you need a kosher wine, Weinstock from California is very good and Israel’s Golan Winery’s three labels, Yarden, Golan and Gamla are superb. Remember, Jews have been making wine longer than the French. Carmel Winery was founded by Baron Edmond James de Rothschild in 1885, using the Rothschild’s own French cuttings (though they switched to American stock after a parasite wiped out the original stock). It was one of the first successful business enterprises of the nascent Zionist movement. The winery is still in business and still uses the original caves Rosthchild had excavated into Mount Carmel in Zichron Ya’akov.
A former boss of mine is an oenophile and he once made a crack about “crummy wine made by Jews”, alluding to sweetened concord grape Maneschewitz, so I asked him, “You mean like Chateau Lafite Rothschild”?
rokemronnie on December 14, 2009 at 11:55 PM
Mogen David Concord. Delicious. Makes a great sweet wine sauce for chicken dishes, too.
-Aslan’s Girl
Aslans Girl on December 15, 2009 at 12:08 AM
Mickey’s Bigmouth, Meisterbrau (2 bucks a case), Boones?? Steppin Out, MD 20/20, Sloe Gin, Tequila & Everclear comprised my drinking memories when 18 was the legal age.
/Shakes head and shivers
These days, I’m partial to microbrew, Kristall Weissen, Riessling and Cali Red, although TX is producing some tasty Reds.
AH_C on December 15, 2009 at 12:42 AM
MD 20/20 – If we don’t make you puke in the bushes at your friend’s house, nothing will.
kagai on December 14, 2009 at 10:25 PM
I downed a pint of MD 20/20 on a bet when I was 17.
I haven’t touched a bottle of wine since!
crazy texas on December 15, 2009 at 6:57 AM
Watched “Bottle Shock” and it was a great depiction of the innovation that occurs in Napa Vally and elsewhere after you get through the love story line.
Loved the oldies but goodies. Especially, the Thunder Bird sales pitch. The only one that was forgotten was “Red Mountain” at $1.00 a gallon and a loaf of Sourdough French Bread a day in Golden Gate Park was always a trip to remember.
As we have learned lately, a good screw top wine can be as great as a corked wine.
Finally, the French do say Hamburger the way Steve Martin does in the “Pink Panther”.
MSGTAS on December 15, 2009 at 10:31 AM
Don’t forget that statist control does the same for music as it has done for French wines. It doesn’t matter if it fascist control (Hitler’s Germany was no musical haven for innovators) or communist control (Stalin’s Russia was no haven for innovators, either.)
{^_^}
herself on December 15, 2009 at 2:35 PM