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The Guide Book Wars

posted at 6:13 pm on February 17, 2007 by see-dubya
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Off the beaten track here…but it’s a weekend, so come with me to Burma for a minute.

Or rather, to the offices of the leading guide-books specializing in the exotic parts of the third world. Burma is, of course, a repressive isolated military-totalitarian backwater that keeps its leading democracy activist locked up under house arrest. Even most liberals have the good sense to hate it. So how do you publish a guidebook for travellers who might want to visit there, especially since most of the money these tourists want to spend goes straight into the state’s coffers? Especially since said democracy activist advises against tourism for that reason?

If you’re the publishers of the Rough Guide series, the answer is simple: you don’t publish. And you advise people not to go there. Even though you make your money covering odd and exotic places, there are some things beyond the pale. Engagement with the Burmese regime simply isn’t worth the price.

If you’re the publisher of Lonely Planet, you publish but present the arguments of both sides up front. And you try to steer people away from government-owned properties and attractions.

And, if I read correctly the article in Irrawaddy that I linked above, you still fail to do so despite your best efforts to walk the line, and you end up helping the state:

The current Lonely Planet guidebook devotes a half page to the Strand, a gleaming white monument to the glories of the British Empire. “Though well beyond the budget of many visitors to Myanmar as a place to spend the night, the Strand is well worth a visit for a drink in the bar, high tea in the lobby lounge or a splurge lunch at the café,” says the guide. Some independent travel writers find themselves splurging in uncomfortably close proximity to expense account government spooks.

The writers of travel guides like these are…well, if I may offer a rank generalization, not usually in the Fox News key demographic. The consumers of Lonely Planet and Rough Guides I’ve encountered around the world, if my generalize again, tend also to be of the hemp-granola-crystals-and-incense sort. But both of these guides clearly understand the perils of engagement with a regime like Burma’s.

Neither was tempted by the third option: act as a mouthpiece for the Burmese government, tout their businesses, and do what they say in exchange for a preferred status in reporting there. That option, of course, is what CNN’s bureau chief admitted to embracing to keep its operations running in Saddam’s Baghdad.

But limited engagement with fascist regimes–Iran and Syria–is also the chosen course advanced by the Iraq Survey Group. And it’s also the policy urged by Hillary Clinton and John Edwards.

The reason we took this little detour to Burma is this: even limited engagement is problematic. Even limited engagement helps keep evil in power and grants it legitimacy. Morally, it’s pretty skeevy. Politically, it encourages a regime’s supporters and dismays its opponents. Strategically, it doesn’t solve anything and may allow enemy regimes to grow stronger. Practically, most of the regimes whose interests lie diametrically opposed to ours shouldn’t be trusted to honor any such negotiations anyway.

“Neocons” and hawkish conservatives are often criticized for a simplistic shoot-first worldview. But it bothers me that I have seen very little evidence that the Left takes seriously the problems associated with “engagement”, or even acknowledges that there are any. Usually I see the litany of problems in Iraq, often followed by a defense of the moderation of the “real” Iranian regime–and then a leap the conclusion that therefore, negotiation with Iran must be called for. Hey, it’s different, so it must be better, right?

No. In the small matters such as a guidebook for Burma, well-meaning writers who (whether liberal or not) are cosmopolitan and politically aware and sip green tea with the Dalai Lama know damn well that such a choice is a complicated one, and that sometimes isolation is the right decision–even if it is a painful and costly one–and that not only won’t engagement won’t solve anything, it may make things worse.

DPRK PS: President Bush’s recent agreement with North Korea has come under such criticism as well. John Bolton, for one, doesn’t like it at all. I’m not sure what to make of it yet–I certainly don’t trust Kim Jong Il as far as Madeline Albright could throw him; but on the other hand our time and resources are limited and Iran’s sponsorship of terrorism and Israel-incineration rhetoric make controlling their nuclear program more of an immediate priority than KJ’s.

What I do see on the Right is a debate that acknowledges the essentially cruddy character of all the options we face. Isolation or engagement, attack or appeasement–none of them are a reflexive feel-good option. When Bush makes any kind deal with Musharraf or the Saudis–or remember Dubai!— he takes heat from the Right, as well as the Left who kick him for political points. We’re living in risky times, and we can’t afford a fuzzy-headed ideological preference for any particular tactic–unless “prudence” counts as an ideology.

Just remember all this when those who demand we engage with Iran’s mullahs bill themselves as the “realists”.


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J Peterman: It’ll always be Burma to me.

RightWinged on February 17, 2007 at 6:19 PM

I thought it was myanmar?

lorien1973 on February 17, 2007 at 6:44 PM

Insightful, thought-provoking stuff. Thanks, see-dub.

mikeyboss on February 17, 2007 at 6:55 PM

The existing military dictatorship renamed the country Myanmar as an anti-colonialist gimmick. And IIRC, that name favors one of the existing ethnic groups that the government likes (instead of the ethnic Burmans–maybe it’s the Shan?). Anyway, as you can see on the front page photo, even the libs at Lonely Planet don’t feel compelled to go along with that one.

Plus “Myanmar Shave” just doesn’t have the same ring. Sort of like how I still drink Bombay Gin instead of Mumbai Gin.

see-dubya on February 17, 2007 at 7:04 PM

I agree with your opinions here, but have to violently disagree with your assessment of LP users! I am a 50 something widow, a grandmother who travels yearly for several months overseas…mostly Europe. I travel solo, with a big old Eagle Creek backpack and rather ‘frugally’ shall I say. (However, no hostels for me :) I need a door to close behind myself at night) That said, I never use any guidebook but LP. I find they best fit my style of travel and the information and maps are excellent. Frommers/Foders are written for a ‘higher’ class of travel than I want, and Rough Guide and Let’s Go are decidedly more ‘party’ oriented and for a much younger crowd. I am most decidedly NOT among the hemp-crystals-beads whatever crowd. I am an Army vet myself, the widow of another, a rock steady Republican in full support of the current administration and one who fully gets the threat of all those ‘peaceful’ Muslims! You insult me sir!

dustoffmom on February 17, 2007 at 7:57 PM

Apologies, Dustoff…as I said, I was generalizing, and you certainly don’t sound like the typical Lonely Planetoid I have encountered abroad (or here.), and I’ve seen a fair sample.

We’re huge fans of the DK Eyewitness Guides. They’re expensive but if you’re touring a single city at a time, in particular, the coverage is outstanding–though they probably don’t cover the range of exotic locales that LP does. (http://us.dk.com/static/cs/us/11/travel/intro.html )

see-dubya on February 17, 2007 at 8:05 PM

I have many Eyewitness books, they are favorite armchair travel reading indeed. However, you obviously do not travel with everything on your back or you would know that while great books, they seem made of lead, and if visiting multiple countries, which I do, to try and carry them along would quickly have you doing the ‘elephant walk’. :)

Apologies immediately accepted…..but quit making such rash biases. ;)

dustoffmom on February 17, 2007 at 9:31 PM

I wandered around Africa for about 7 months – and in the backpacker circles LP was ‘affectionately’ referred to as ‘The Book Of Lies’. It’s not too much of crack since keeping a published book ‘up to date’ is a near impossible task. LP definitely had value but RG was my preferred …

wowbagger on February 17, 2007 at 10:41 PM

RightWinged on February 17, 2007 at 6:19 PM

If there’s anything we know about you – you’re a HUGE Seinfeld fan. Actually, I am too. I still watch the reruns and I still laugh my head off. The BEST comedy of modern times.

thedecider on February 18, 2007 at 12:15 AM

Tony Wheeler, founder of the Lonely Planet guidebooks and author of the first three Burma editions, dismisses the boycott campaign, saying it “actually makes me more determined. I am not going to be told by anyone what I can publish.”

That’s curious. If you’re the publisher of travel brochures, don’t you want to encourage people to go places they will feel safe and have a great time? I mean, if not, then you may as well encourage them to travel to…I don’t know…North Korea!

Enjoy the breath-taking scenery of complete darkness at night or thrill to the daring, starving peasants compete over a decaying bird carcass.

Yeah – I want to go *cough*

thedecider on February 18, 2007 at 12:24 AM

Tony Wheeler, founder of the Lonely Planet guidebooks and author of the first three Burma editions, dismisses the boycott campaign, saying it “actually makes me more determined. I am not going to be told by anyone what I can publish.”

Hey, he could do a guide book for;
“States Exclusively Run By Mass-Murdering dictators.”

The sub title could be;
“Africa: and the Muslim States of the Middle East.”

Mojave Mark on February 18, 2007 at 9:57 AM

Really interesting article and verrrry well written. Thank you.

RushBaby on February 18, 2007 at 12:04 PM

http://www.amazon.com/North-Korea-Bradt-Travel-Guide/dp/1841620742/sr=1-1/qid=1171863341/ref=sr_1_1/105-1261927-3884456?ie=UTF8&s=books

Here is the link to the one and only travel guide that I know of to N. Korea. A friend lent it to me and I found it absolutely fascinating! I read it cover to cover.
The first 65 or so pages is the history of the Korean penninsula, worth picking the book up just to read. The rest of the book, the “travel” section is just chilling.

Babs on February 19, 2007 at 12:39 AM

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